In The News. . .

AHAs - Three generations of learning

By Robert Posner

Much has been written and discussed in the last several years about Alpha Hydroxy Acids as useful modalities in skin care therapeutics. Probably no products which have appeared recently have created more interest and misunderstandings, possible because they work too well.

When the first-generation products appeared several years ago, there was an intense marketing effort by only a few companies, all competing for the shied away from Glycolic Acid Only products because of the perceived noting that the various patents granted to one company were too strong to fight or too unimportant to attempt to circumvent legally. These first few products were not as effective, nor were they as comfortable to use as many of today's second-and third-generation mixed AHA, pH-buffered products.

>>> Find out more. . .

All About Lipids; Retaining skin moisture just got easier!

By Robert Posner

Lipid: Any one of a group of fats or fatlike substances, characterized by their insolubility in fat solvents such as alcohol, ether, and chloroform. The term is a descriptive rather than a chemical name. Lipids include:

• True fats (esters of fatty acids and glycerol)
• Lipoids (phospholipids, cerebrosides, waxes)
• Sterols (cholesterol, ergosterrol)

  >>> Find out more. . .

Liposomes

By Robert Posner

As is common knowledge, the skin is a protective organ which allows very few materials to penetrate. Some bases are unable to work effectively because of their relative inability to penetrate the stratum corneum; for example, some notable actives such as collagen and elastin are molecules too large to penetrate effectively. With the liposome at our command however, we can carry and then release an active into several layers of epidermis. We can release both oil-and water-soluble actives, and at the same time control the feel and effectiveness of a topical application.

>>> Find out more. . .

Menopause and Skin

By Robert Posner

Menopause, or the cessation of menstruation (a period in which the ovaries produce less and less of the female hormone, estrogen), signals the end of the ability to conceive but also the onslaught of the aging process. Usually occurring between the ages of 45-55, the symptoms manifest themselves as an increased dryness and loss of elasticity which continues to affect the skin as time marches onward. Obviously, hereditary factors, exposure to the elements, and lifestyle (smoking, alcohol, etc.) are far ranging contributory conditions. Nutrition and prior care of the skin are other variables.

>>> Find out more. . .

Skin Bleaching

By Robert Posner

The use of skin-lightening cosmetics varies significantly between cultures. In western countries, for example, skin lighteners are applied for the prevention and/or treatment of melasma, freckles or age spots. In Asian and African nations, on the other hand, the primary use of skin lighteners is to make the skin whiter, lighter, and brighter.

It is imperative that one understands how melanin works, the causative processes of darkened skin and the ingredients and effectiveness of bleaching ingredients used today, in order to select a therapeutic medium that really can work.

>>> Find out more. . .

Sun Sense isn't Nonsense; Learning to deal with the summer sun

By Robert Posner

Much of what we know about the sun's effects on human skin has been discovered in the past 20 or 30 years. The creation of the SPF (Sun-Protection Factor) has led to more organized and simplified way. We realize that a sun block or SPF-15 or higher, for example, will prevent exposure to UVB rays that burn and in some preparations, block out UVA rays that can cause skin cancers including malignant melanoma.

>>> Find out more. . .